Travel Guide: Amalfi Coast, Italy
Sharing my honest account visiting southern Italy’s top tourist destination: the good, the bad, the beautiful
I mean, this view in Positano really is something.
What do you say about the Amalfi Coast that hasn’t been said before? The truth?! Haha I’m kidding. My thoughts on the topic are fairly nuanced. Would I go back? No. Am I glad I went in the first place? Yes. A lot of what you see or hear about the Amalfi Coast is through rose-colored glasses. The reality is that it’s a major tourist destination as much as it’s a cultural location, and that needs to be taken into account in the planning. So that’s what I aim to help with in this guide.
Caveats: this is only one person’s perspective. Everyone has different priorities when it comes to travel that might align better with some trips over others. I did not explore every bit of it (which I’ll explain why below).
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General Overview
Overall Impressions
The scenery is beyond stunning. Pretty as a postcard.
Be prepared to walk, a lot. And up many many flights of stairs. On one day I walked up 63 flights!
It is very crowded at its peak in July and August. In particular, there is a lot of Americans at that time; almost every conversation I overheard was in English. So if you want a less touristy experience, they say to go in May/June and September/October.
Location makes a difference. Even at peak tourism, I found I could barely move through the crowds in Positano, yet Ravello had much more open space. This observation is explained by the fact that Positano is the main draw in the area, and Ravello is slightly less accessible up a mountainside.
Did I mention it was hot as hell in August? Italy was hit by a big heat wave in summer 2023, but I suspect it’s always pretty warm and humid in July/August — yet another reason to go earlier or later if possible. The weather makes a big difference when you’re spending so much time walking around and have fewer opportunities to cool off.
Although it has ‘coast’ in the name, the beach / water is not super accessible in the Amalfi Coast. This is because most of where you stay is up on a cliff so you have to take steps down to the beach / water (or I’ve heard some places have an elevator down!). Even where there are beaches, they are quite small and a little rocky just to set expectations. A lot of the waterfront is rockface with areas to dive in and decks built out for chairs. Probably the best way to access the water is by boat.
Infinity Terrace at Villa Cimbrone
The charming streets of Ravello
Know Before You Go
Amalfi Coast was designated as a World Heritage Site with its exceptional cultural and natural scenic values resulting from its dramatic topography and historical evolution including architecture and agriculture dating to the Middle Ages.
The road connecting the Amalfi Coast towns is 750 years old and took 150 years to build — not surprising given the road cuts through mountains and is perched precariously on a cliff.
The Amalfi Coast rose to prominence as a tourist destination dating back to the 18th century when upper class Europeans visited during their Grand Tours and has remained a fixture of the international jet-set ever since.
In more recent times Ravello, in particular, attracted many famous artists, musicians, and writers who favored it as an ideal place to live, work and play and offered discretion and boundless inspiration.
One of the most popular searches related to Amalfi Coast is “where do the Kardashians stay?” which should tell you a lot. Nowadays Positano is a popular stop for luxury yachts, and celebrities flock to the 5-star Hotel Sirenuse (that’s the answer btw).
Snapshot of Towns
Positano - by far the most famous of the Amalfi Coast towns and for good reason, with its striking landscape composed of multi colored structures built into the hillside cascading into the sea. It’s also home to one of the most glamorous hotels in the world, Le Sirenuse. However as a result of its reputation, it’s a major tourist draw. The tiny streets and beachfront are flooded with throngs of people. It almost reminded me of Miami Beach. Also fair warning, to get anywhere you must go down - and therefore back up - many, many flights of stairs. It’s a great way to burn off all the pasta, but it does make for a slightly tiresome experience. For these reasons, I’ve been told by several friends that they didn’t love staying in Positano and instead suggested it as a better place to visit.
Ravello - this town is the most challenging to come by because it is located at the top of the hillside; the benefit is that fewer people go there, and it has the best view to take in the coastline. Another bonus is that despite it being on a hill, the town itself is quite flat so it’s really lovely to stroll around. Unlike other towns nearby, it has a piazza, which is lined with cafes and the duomo, making it a lovely spot to sit and take in the rhythms of life. In fact, we witnessed a wedding and a funeral all while sitting there. Ravello also has great shopping and restaurants which I believe were easier to get into.
Amalfi - admittedly I didn’t explore this town so I won’t pretend to be an expert. My biggest impression of Amalfi was traveling through it — the town is right on the road where you have to dodge pedestrians to get through, and it’s a bustling port with ferries coming in and out. All do that was a little stressful! I suspect if you climb up the hill a bit there is a more of a town with some quieter pockets.
Praiano - this is the biggest town between Positano and Amalfi. It’s perfectly positioned for enjoying sunset (I recommend a few spots below). I like the fact that it’s a bit off the beaten path. We visited the beach (which is more like rocks you can dive off) — it was down a very steep hill, but I really enjoyed the scenery and the payoff of the water of course.
Minori - this town is further away from the heart of the Amalfi Coast. I didn’t get a chance to visit, but I have heard it is a little quieter and has good shopping.
Close up of the statues on the belvedere at Villa Cimbrone
Overhead view of One Fire Beach in Praiano
Logistics
Traveling to Amalfi Coast
Naples is the closest international airport so that’s where we flew into.
We decided to rent a car so that we could be fully in control.
We picked up the rental car at the airport in Naples. A tip is to rent from a large international company and check the opening times; we rented from Hertz. We arrived late at night, and it was one of two car rental companies open. We were able to get our car (and exchange it when the first one didn’t have AC) but we encountered a group who couldn’t get their rental because the window was closed. When we booked, automatic cars were sold out so don’t leave it to the last minute if that’s what you need!
The drive from Naples to Ravello was around an hour, up some very twisty mountain roads.
Most places don’t have parking. Your hotel or Airbnb should be able to advise you on the most convenient parking nearby (FYI it might be pretty far from where you’re staying). You may need to reserve in advance.
Getting Around
We made a fateful decision to drive one day from Ravello to Positano. It’s a windy cliffside road that’s fairly breathtaking both for the driver and passengers. In peak season it takes 1 hour 20 min. We naively thought we’d be able to drive this road back and forth, but this experience made us realize it would be a lot more challenging to get between towns.
The alternative is taking the ferry. Not every town has a ferry port so you might have to travel there, but once you’ve arrived, it’s a much more civilized way to travel.
Our friends who were there at the same time took a different strategy — they didn’t have a car, and they stayed in each place for a couple days, then hired a taxi to take them to the next one.
You can also take the bus!
A car still gives you the most access to all the areas, and the most flexibility.
Traveling by ferry from Amalfi to Positano
Where to Stay
I’m going to focus on places in Ravello as that’s where I have personal experience and where I would recommend as a great base for exploring the Amalfi Coast.
Airbnb: Casa Buendia - this is one of the better Airbnbs I’ve stayed in. The location was right next to Villa Rufalo, central to town and felt a part of the history. It’s recently been redone, styled with the same angled brown and white tile throughout. There’s a slight view of the water (accessible via the terrace which also doubles as a kitchen), but the biggest perk is the full spa including a hammam and sauna.
Hotel Giordano - our friend stayed here and admittedly we were jealous that she had a pool. Many of the rooms have balconies with views looking out to Scala.
Palazzo Avino - we just happened to stumble into this hotel one day, and wow is it special. In addition to the pink facade, it’s decorated with pink umbrellas, furniture, and flowers. It has a breathtaking view from multiple levels that the hotel is built upon. If I was to do a luxury hotel in Amalfi, this would be at the top of my list.
The terrace of the Airbnb where we stayed in Ravello
Looking up at the magnificent Palazzo Avino
Where to Eat & Drink
Ravello
Osteria Ravello - the restaurant is set on a sloped pathway with views on one side, very romantic! Food was pretty good with a mix of seafood and pastas. We had a memorable bruschetta here (and they also serve prosciutto on a stand which made for a great presentation).
Mimi Pizzeria & Cucina - for a more casual night, this place hits the spot with solid pizza served in a pretty garden terrace (there are two sides, so ask to sit on the garden side if possible).
Piazza - each corner of the piazza has a different restaurant. Though they all look the same, they each have a different flavor. Our favorite, and the one I’d recommend for a morning or afternoon caffe or evening aperitvo, is X. They have surprisingly good homemade pastry especially the donuts, and other prepared foods if you just want something to go (that can be hard to find). The best part though is the people watching. For a more authentic feel, sit on the tables on a platform right outside the entrance.
Trattoria Da Lorenzo - our friends love this family-owned restaurant so much they decided to throw a couple of their wedding events with them. Unfortunately, we weren’t able to make it, and I’m sad to have missed out on the freshly prepared pastas and pretty setting. Note: this is in Scala so it’s a bit outside of Ravello.
Baffone Gelateria Artigianale - my husband declared this the best gelato he had in Italy. I recall they had some more unique flavors, and you can get one of those lemon gelato filled lemons here too.
Cocktails on the rooftop of Le Sirenuse at Aldo’s
Spaghetti Positanese at Da Gabrisa in Positano
Positano
Da Gabrisa - my friend recommended it as one of their favorite meals in the Amalfi, and I’m glad we went. The restaurant is outside of the fray of downtown; elevated on the hillside, it has a wonderful view. The food was experimental but still grounded in the classics. They recommended a reservation, but I found it was pretty quiet for lunch. When booking it suggested I needed to sign up for a pre fix menu, but when I arrived we were able to order a la carte.
Aldo’s at Le Sirenuse - this is one of those once-in-a-lifetime spots. A reservation is very hard to get, but luckily our friends made one for us. It’s billed as a cocktail spot, but it has a full menu to have a bite with drinks or a meal. I recommend booking a reservation around 7ish so you can enjoy the view from sunset to dusk. The view is outstanding but so too is every last detail from the decor to the service to the A+ aperitivo served in stunning Murano glass.
Franco’s Bar - if you’re not planners or don’t have a friend to hook you up, this cocktail spot is right next door to Le Sirenuse, and is a no reservation spot. There was a line when we walked by, but it wasn’t too bad.
Collina Positano Bakery - pretty good gelato as well as other bakery items
Praiano
Kasai - another recommendation from our friends that we were planning on but honestly didn’t make it because we needed a break from travel! Another great spot to come for a sunset aperitivo then stay for dinner.
Cafe Mirante - we found this place by total chance. We were so overheated on our way back to Ravello from Positano we decided to take a dip in Praiano. The swim spot was located at the bottom of a very long walk down but on the way we clocked this charming bar that was in the middle of a residential area. On our way back up we stopped and had one of the best sunset cocktails of our life. The bar has a panoramic view of the sunset, and the cocktails were damn good too.
I believe this is considered the most selfie spot in Ravello, located in the garden at Villa Rufolo
Incredible design feature found at Villa Rufolo
What to Do
Mozzarella Making (with Caseificio Staiano Di Staiano Biagio) - I wish I had known about this sooner so I’m passing along this tip so you don’t make the same mistake. Our friends did this and said it was so fun and they ate so much cheese they actually cancelled their dinner reservation. Email info@caseificioravello.it to reserve.
Villa Cimbrone Gardens - the garden is open to the public while the hotel is private. Go just to see the infinity terrace which is a dramatic belvedere lined with busts. Stop for a spritz or homemade gelato at the cafe with a view.
Villa Rufolo - this is the site of a series of buildings and ruins dating back to the 13th century. It’s worth a visit for the views alone including one of the most famous from Ravello (see shot below). I was most intrigued by the building added in the 19th century with a series of salons connected by doorways framed in exquisite architectural detail.
Boat Tour - we didn’t get around to taking a boat ride outside of the ferry, but it’s definitely one of the best ways to see the sites and get perspective on the towns. Our friends took a boat tour from Positano and recommended this boat provider to us.
Ravello Festival for classical music concerts - these musical events have been going on in Ravello for over a hundred years and attracted some of the biggest names in music from Richard Wagner to Placido Domingo making it one of the things Ravello is best known for. The concerts take place in July-August in a spectacular location at Villa Rufolo overlooking the water view.
Beach Club - although the beach/water is harder to get to than you think, hanging out at a beach club is still a quintessential activity. Most beaches (or cliffside swim holes) have beach clubs with chairs and umbrellas set up and available for rent (some are part of hotels). The more exclusive - and typically better located - ones require reservation. We didn’t plan this, but I’ll pass along my findings in case this is up your alley.
Arienzo Beach Club (Postiano) - you take a shuttle from the center to this beach, so it’s more private and exclusive, with all the drinks and dining you could want for the day.
One Fire Beach (Praiano) - this spot has more of a clubby vibe with loud music, so it’s the place to go if you want to party.
Image: Aller Dorset via YOU Magazine
Where to Shop in Ravello
Ferrigno Francesca (glass shop located across from Al Viccolo market) - I am quite taken with Murano glass, and it’s nearly impossible to source in America so you can imagine my excitement when I came across this store stocked from top to bottom with shelves of glasses, pitchers, vases all with unique and colorful designs. They’re not cheap, but if you’re worried about breakage, they will ship (as most stores do).
Ravello Arte (ceramics) - the shopkeepers can be overly intense, practically breathing down your neck. Here the shopkeepers were not only chill but also knowledgeable and helpful. This is also the only store in town that’s a licensed dealer of Solimene which is a ceramic maker from Vietre that has a signature style with colorful designs often depicting animals. There are lots of imitations around town (for a lot less) but I wanted the real thing (and it was still less than what you pay in America). My husband and I picked out some espresso cups, saucers and lids to add to our collection.
La Bottega di Villa Maria (home goods store attached to a cafe) - you’ll start to get a feeling like a lot of the ceramics look the same so it was a breath of fresh air to stumble on this shop on the way to Villa Cimbrone. They carry a selection of more contemporary ceramics from local artists as well as a wider variety of homewares.
Linen shop (I can’t find the name but it is located next to Gruppo Petit Prince gallery in the piazza) - I was mostly focused on homewares on this trip, but I did take note that Ravello has a number of high quality clothing shops. What stood out the most to me is linen…shirts, shorts, dresses, in lovely hues of soft linen. This shop was the standout to me.
Diane Lane overlooking Positano in Under the Tuscan Sun
Stanley Tucci and his wife Felicity in Stanley Tucci: Searching for Italy
Amalfi Coast in the Arts
In case you never think you’ll travel there or want to be inspired before you go, here’s a rundown of how the Amalfi Coast has been featured in the arts & culture to check out.
Only You - the 1994 romantic comedy starring Robert Downey Jr and Marisa Tomei had pivotal scenes shot in Positano, notably in Hotel Sirenuse and Hotel Covo dei Saraceni.
Under the Tuscan Sun - Positano is the backdrop for Diane Lane’s character’s ill-fated romance in the expat classic.
Beat the Devil - this 1954 John Huston-directed film, starring Humphrey Bogart was shot in Ravello; in fact I saw a plaque on a building near the piazza noting that it was the base for production.
Stanley Tucci: Searching for Italy - in his CNN series Stanley Tucci dines at Lo Scoglio, a seaside restaurant on the Bay of Nerano and shares the recipe for making the Amalfi classic dish spaghetti al nerano.