Travel Guide: Ischia, Italy
Sharing all of my secrets to discover this lesser known Southern Italian island destination
The iconic Ischia view of Castello Aragonese where we were fortunate enough to stay
We came to Ischia via the Amalfi Coast. Frankly, we were looking for some place less expensive and a little quieter. Friends of ours recommended it as the quieter sibling to Capri, and then we started to come across all of these travel articles saying the same thing. We just hoped we’d get there in time, before the word got out!
Caveats: this is only one person’s perspective. Everyone has different priorities when it comes to travel that might align better with some trips over others. For 3 out of 5 days we were there we were hit by a storm which forced us to recalibrate our plans from spending most of it on the beach to finding other activities. We went to Ischia with the expectation that it would be more of a relaxing beach holiday, so unfortunately we didn’t get the full experience and probably would have walked away with a totally different perspective had it been sunny and beach weather the whole time.
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General Overview
Overall Impressions
It’s fairly easy to get there (a quick hop on the ferry from Naples).
I don’t know why I always assume islands are going to be small – it was definitely bigger than I expected and yet at the same time was very easy to get around. We had actually booked two hotels, one on either side of the island, thinking we could divide our time. That’s what we did, but in retrospect it would not have been the end of the world to drive to the other side for dinner for example.
There was a decent amount of culture, but this is not a cultural destination per se.
Ischia is a holiday island. People come for the beaches and the thermal spas for which it is famous.
The food scene is top notch. For whatever reason there are a lot of very high end restaurants (tasting menu kinda places) but there’s a variety too. The speciality on the coast is seafood and in the mountains, rabbit (more on that below).
The view of our balcony hovering right above the sea at Umberto a Mare
A quick espresso at Il Terrazzo Bar to soak up this view
Know Before You Go
Ischia is known as Italy’s spa island. This is because it is home to 103 natural thermal springs which are reputed to have healing properties.
Ischia was primarily an agricultural island, with wine being the primary crop. Then, in the late 1950’s through the 1960’s Ischia became a big destination for filmmaking and a hang out for film stars. In turn, the main industry became tourism.
Perhaps my favorite piece of trivia is that Ischia was the place where Richard Burton and Elizabeth Taylor fell in love and carried on their controversial affair while filming Cleopatra.
Ischia feels distinctively Italian. Although we encountered American tourists, the majority of people were Italian tourists or locals.
Due to its proximity to the sea, there is an abundance of seafood, usually freshly caught that day. However, the island’s most famous typical dish is coniglio all’ischitana, which is a rabbit stewed in a clay pot with white wine, garlic, cherry tomatoes, and chili. This dish definitely owes to Ischia’s agricultural roots. Another more contemporary regional dish to try is zingara ischitana which is a grilled sandwich made with mozzarella, tomato, prosciutto crudo and lettuce.
Spiaggia di San Montano in the northwest part of the island
A main street in Ischia Ponte decorated in lights for the festival
Snapshot of Towns
Forio - Forio is located in the northwest corner and includes a picturesque old town, harbor, a high concentration of shops and restaurants, and one of the most beautiful beaches on the island, Spiaggia di Citara. We had dinner on the waterfront the first night and quite by accident stumbled on the main part of town, which was busy but in a way that gave it life.
Ischia Porto / Ponte - this part of Ischia is divided into the new part and the old part. The newer Porto is where we arrived on the car ferry and is notable for its beach view of the Castello Aragonese (this is the famous shot from The Talented Mr Ripley). The historic area has charming streets with a few stores and restaurants which in comparison to Forio was a little less lively. Its main attraction is the aforementioned Castello Aragonese which is part tourist attraction, part hotel (and where we stayed). We happened to be there right before a big local festival and the streets were decorated with magnificent lights making it clear this is the historical and cultural heart of Ischia.
Sant Angelo - we didn’t visit here, but it’s the biggest town in the south, and some have said it bears a passing resemblance to Amalfi Coast. Word to the wise, it is easier to access from the West. We drove down to Spiaggia dei Maronti beach from the east and thought we’d drive over there, but it would have taken an hour climbing through the hills.
A boat taxi is a delightful and easy way to get around
An aerial view of the causeway that connects Ischia Ponte to Castello Aragonese
Logistics
Traveling to Ischia
We flew in and out of Naples, but I believe there are fewer flights so depending on your location, budget and flexibility, you may need to fly into a bigger airport like Rome and connect.
From Naples, it takes about an hour by ferry to get to Ischia. The ferry terminal is pretty centrally located and fairly easy to navigate.
We had already rented a car for the first part of our trip to the Amalfi Coast so we decided to take it over to Ischia on a car ferry.
Getting Around
Public transportation (buses) and taxis are an option, but I highly recommend a car to be able to access the full island and go on your own schedule.
Look into parking in advance. Some of the bigger resort hotels may have parking on site. Our two hotels did not. We found a public parking lot near one where you buy a ticket and leave it on the dash (it actually fell off the dash one night and we got a ticket, but my husband appealed and they let us off the hook!). At the other location, we used a private garage and could take the car out when we wanted during open hours. However, it was a fair distance from our hotel, and we had to walk through the streets with our luggage!
The island has a policy of limiting access to the central part of town to locals. So you may have to drive around or park further away from those areas.
Unlike the Amalfi Coast, the roads in Ischia are pretty easy to drive on. There are a few main roads that connect the island — you can drive from one side to the other in 20-30 min with minimal traffic. The only area where the roads were a little scarier was in the mountains where they narrow quite a bit. Make sure Google Maps is taking you on the biggest roads possible.
One thing to be aware of is that looking on a map it can appear that two places are close, but if they’re connected by mountain roads, it could take a lot longer. This mainly applies in the south and central part of the island.
The easiest way to get around the south and parts of Ischia Ponte is by water taxi which is super cheap (€3-5).
The terrace at Il Monastero where we dined for breakfast and dinner at the restaurant
Where to Stay
Il Monastero - this was the second of two places we stayed on the island. I like to say we stayed in a castle because the Monastery is a part of the Castello Aragonese. The massive complex of buildings is perched high on a rock that’s essentially an island connected to Ischia Ponte by a causeway. There’s a pretty dramatic tunnel to enter and a perilous lift up to the top – on one hand it adds to the experience; on the other hand, it could feel like we were quite far removed from everything else. We booked a Superior Room, which I believe there are two, and ours had a balcony facing north with a view of the island and boats below. The decor was very simple but had an elegant warmth. One of the reasons we chose the hotel other than the location was that the hotel has a garden where it grows everything from wine grapes to tomatoes, much of which is used in the restaurant. It was a big perk to be able to walk around the gardens, and we even enjoyed an aperitivo up there. Another highlight was the breakfast, an enormous spread of fresh fruits, vegetales, breads and cakes. Admission to the Castello Aragonese is included in the room.
Umberto a Mare - we stayed here for the first two nights; it was the cheaper of the two and gave us foot access to Forio. It was so nice to be able to walk to dinner without having to get the care out. Our room had two balconies overlooking the sea which was just 10 feet below which made us feel like we were practically on a boat (the downside of that was when a storm hit and we felt like we were going to be washed out to sea!). The hotel also had a sun deck with lounger chairs assigned by room and a staircase to access the sea. Had the weather not turned bad, we probably would have enjoyed this a lot more.
Botania Relais & Spa - our friends stayed here just a few weeks after us and had a wonderful experience. The hotel is fully sustainable and offers farm to table food. There’s also a beautiful spa and access to the beach.
Mezzatorre Hotel & Thermal Spa - this is by far the best hotel on the island, created by the family who own Il Pelicano. There’s been enough ink spilled on this place, so I’ll direct you to this article to read more. We tried to go for lunch one day and were turned away. Outside visitors are allowed with a reservation to dine or from 3-5pm for aperitivo.
Our room at Il Monastero had a balcony with a breathtaking view
Details of the room which was sparse but warm
Where to Eat & Drink
Forio
Seasons - we visited on a windy night so it was a little dead, but it has a gorgeous ambiance right on the beach. The main attraction is the seafood, which they only serve if it’s freshly caught from their own fishermen. Our wonderful waiter brought over a cart with the selection for the evening; we chose a sea bass, and it was cooked to perfection. Very friendly waitstaff.
Saturnino - the restaurant is completely open so you can take in the view of the water and the breeze. The night we went it was full of attractive Italians (as opposed to a more touristy feel). Their specialty is seafood with a large selection of raw fish. Not the most memorable meal but I’d still recommend.
Ristorante Pizzeria la Bella Napoli - this pizza place got a lot of hype, and it was good pizza served in a nice setting, but our friends agree with us that the pizza at Ristorante Pizzeria Pirozzi in Ischia Ponte was much better.
La Granita - Located in the main tourist area in Forio, this place is a must for granita. There are lots of options to choose from.
Picking out our freshly caught seafood at Seasons
Gorgeous setting at Saturnino
In the Mountains
Trattoria Il Focolare - this restaurant was one of the biggest high points of the trip. We discovered it because it was featured in Stanley Tucci’s CNN show Searching for Italy. The restaurant is run by the children of the founder, and not only was it an exquisite example of regional cuisine we really felt like we were getting a cultural experience. Their famous for their coniglio all’ischitana (which they say to order in advance when you book your reservation), but I’d also suggest ordering the antipasti, which is a sampler of dishes that keep coming (the best of them all was the rabbit pasta - I could have eaten two portions of it!). At one point our waitress, the daughter of the founder, came over and showed us the best way to eat the rabbit (stab potatoes on a fork and sop up the juices in the stew). At the end she gave us a tour of the family’s wine cellar and the history of the restaurant. Truly memorable.
Coniglio all’ischitana (rabbit stew) at Il Focolare — a top recommendation!
Take out pizza from Ristorante Pizzeria Pirozzi enjoyed on our balcony one night
Ischia Ponte
Ristorante Da Ciccio - this was a solid trattoria with all the regional dishes represented. Try to eat outside – they put these giant seashells on the tables, and there’s a view of the Castello Aragonese.
Ristorante Pizzeria Pirozzi - this was our favorite pizza on the island and only got bested by pizza in Naples. Not a fancy spot. We actually got takeout one rainy night when we needed a break from restaurants, and it really hit the spot.
Pasticceria Trani - Italy is not known for the best, freshest pastry, but I found this place to have truly good pastries and gelato.
Ristorante Bar da Coco - we didn’t actually stop here, but I did notice that it was packed with locals in the morning having their espresso and pastry. I’m always clocking more authentic places to check out so that’s why I call this place out.
Ristorante Il Monastero - we ate in our hotel’s restaurant on our final night. It was quite the epic meal! They offer five different tasting menus. Their approach is taking classics and reinterpreting them in creative ways. The setting on the terrace overlooking the island is so stunning. If tasting menus are your thing, I definitely recommend this as a special experience.
A mix of architecutre and views at Castello Aragonese
Incredible frescoes created by students of the school of Giotto at Castello Aragonese
What to Do
Castello Aragonese - this is a sprawling complex where at one point 2,000 people lived made up of several churches, the monastery, gardens and more. As you tour around on a guided path, you get a really great snapshot of the history of the island. Plus, you’re surrounded by a stunning natural landscape which includes countless fruit trees and an unobstructed vista out to sea. At the very top, you’re treated to Il Terrazzo Bar where you can stop for an espresso, a light bite, or aperitivo and the best views on the whole island.
Beach clubs - like in other parts of Italy, there are lots of beach clubs which offer an umbrella and chairs, and typically are connected to a snack bar/restaurant. It’s a very civilized way to sun (for a fee of course!). Here are the top ones we came across.
Giardino Eden - we took a water taxi from Ischia Ponte to Giardino Eden. There are a few other beach clubs in this area, but I think this one is the best because unlike the others, the beach chairs are perched right on top of the water (there’s no beach). There’s also a restaurant, and you can order drinks right to your chair. We booked a sun bed on the deck for 50 Euro for a day; reservation required.
Seasons - when we dined at the restaurant, we noticed that they had hundreds of chairs/umbrellas out front. There are several other set ups in Forio, but this one seemed the classiest, and you can stop at the restaurant for a sunset aperitivo after a day at the beach.
Hotel Club Scannella - our friends went here, and I’m bummed we didn’t make it because it looks amazing. It’s located in the southwest part of the island and offers an incredible view and natural pools. Reservation required
Beaches - many parts of southern Italy don’t even have beaches, or they’re miniscule, so Ischia definitely has that going for it. Do not think you’re getting Caribbean style white sand and crystal clear waters. The beaches are quite rocky (and hard to walk on), and the water is a little murky.
Spiaggia di San Montano / Negombo thermal spa - considered one of the most beautiful beaches in Ischia by many, it is shaped like a crescent with fairly shallow, calm waters in between. The beach is divided into sections with a free public part, an area to rent chairs/umbrellas, and a membership area. Right next door is the Negombo thermal spa, which is a separate entrance fee.
Spiaggia dei Maronti - this beach also came recommended, and I’ll be honest we found it to be a bit of a letdown. For starters the water was too choppy to swim in; this was right after a storm, but I have a feeling it might be rougher in general because it is more exposed. Along the beach there are tons of beach restaurants and places to rent chairs/umbrellas; it all just looked a little sad and rundown.
My husband living his best life on sun beds at Giardino Eden’s deck
Lunch with a view at Giardino Eden
Where to Shop
Straight up, this is not a place to come for shopping. But if you are looking to peruse around some stores, here’s what I’d suggest.
Area around Corso Francesco Regine in Forio - this is a very lively street full of restaurants and stores that are open and busy through the late evening. I wouldn’t say anything is of great quality or uniqueness, but it’s fun to look around.
La Madonnella Ceramiche - you see so many ceramic shops they all start blending together, but this is the one I would specifically call out further down on Corso Francesco Regine. The ceramics here are of a higher artistic quality and are completely unique. In fact, you can actually watch the artist at work.
Movie posters for films shot in Ischia over the years at Il Focolare
Ischia in the Arts
Ischia has a very interesting place in the arts. A Hollywood producer came to the island in the late 50’s and proceeded to host many, many movie stars and helped attract film productions to the island which still continues to this day.
Cleopatra - I’m a big Elizabeth Taylor fan, and I remember hearing stories about the notorious filming of this movie. So I was quite tickled to compare stills from the movie to where I was staying.
The Talented Mr Ripley - both the film and the book it was based on are set in Ischia. Again, I have such a strong impression of the glamorous couple played by Jude Law and Gwyneth Paltrow with the backdrop of the Castello Aragonese in the background. Funnily enough this film was set roughly at the time when Cleopatra was filmed, so essentially in Ischia heyday.
My Brilliant Friend - the HBO TV set, based on a novel, is mostly set in Naples, but two episodes of the show’s second season are dedicated to the two protagonists' summer in Ischia where they shot scenes.